Dry selvedge denim. The holy grail of denim if you ask a true denim connoisseur. Why is it so?

True denim enthusiasts swear to the do-it-yourself version of jeans where the fading of the denim, the ”whiskers” on the thighs and the ”honeycombs” on the back of the knee come from wearing the jeans instead of being premade during production. While most people prefer the sanitized versions where new jeans are made to look old and with different amounts of scrapings, rips and repairs - a true denim connoisseur swears to the journey of breaking in a  pair of jeans and creating a personal expression. A journey that starts with a pair of dry jeans and ends in a unique fade with rips and worn effects, created by the owner and unique to his or hers body with visible fading lines where you keep your personal belongings like your  phone, keys and wallet.


Our experiment

Going into our tenth year of making jeans, we thought it could be interesting to do a break in experiment. We wanted to see how the same jeans would develop on five different persons over a period of three months. All participants are different in height and shape, some have used the jeans daily for the period, others occasionally. The participants all received a sample size (32”/32”), which meant that, one participant made some high turn-ups, one participant shortened the jeans by scissor and a third had to block the jeans for them to fit.


The jeans

To celebrate our ten-year anniversary, we created a limited edition jean, based on our popular Vinci model. A classic five-pocket comfort fit with a slightly tapered silhouette, crafted by a unique fabric that has been hand-dipped in natural indigo from the Kuroki Mill in Japan. Special jeans for a special experiment.

The Koruki Mill

We have selected a unique fabric from the Japanese Denim Mill Kuroki. A fabric dipped in natural indigo. The Kuroki Mill dates back to the 1950s, and specialises in dying with natural indigo. Kuroki employs natural soft water in the beautiful scenic region of Ibara City in Okayama for dyeing and processing. This allows for production of a beautiful clear blue color, like the one you see when all the clouds clear after a heavy storm. The water used at Kuroki is treated to a very strict safety level of Seto inland sea regulation, so that it may be returned to the river where the water irrigation systems are connected to the vegetable fields and rice paddies of Okayama.


The rules

True denim nerds say that you should never wash your jeans. The point of not washing them is to avoid breaking down the fibers of the denim and preserve the indigo in the jeans. If they get dirty, you can rub them with a damp cloth. When you start to loose friends due to the odour, throw them in the washing machine and wash them inside out.

In this experiment, we wanted to make the rules as simple as possible. So - there are no rules! The participants can wash the jeans, beat them or take them for a swim in the harbour - yes, one of the participants actually did that. We don’t know how that contributed to the fade, but the fact is that these jeans faded the most.


The dry jeans



The fades



Five different expressions


If you line up the jeans next to each other, you truly see how different and unique each pair of jeans has developed. It is clear that some jeans have been used more and therefore also faded more. Our founder wore his jeans every day of the period, which resulted in a hard fade. 

A fade of a pocket knife is starting to appear below the pocket / Whiskers on the thigh



Breaking in a pair of jeans takes time and effort. Let’s admit it - nobody likes the feeling of sliding into a pair of drys but the end result is worth it. The personal fade, the transition, the story these jeans tell makes everything worth it. There are no shortcuts to a fade. It takes time and effort. Our experiment lasted 90 days and we are curious to how the result would have been, if we had extended the period. 

Let’s follow up in one year and make an episode two.


Ready for breaking in a pair of jeans?

Explore our raw Vinci jeans